My first thing to paint for Age of Sigmar in... well, ages. I had this mini primed and mounted to be painted for at least a year. Now, I rewatched this awesome tutorial by the Warhipster and got to work, following it loosely.
Gold armor
Basecoat Glorious Gold.
Wash 4:1 diluted Wyldwood.
The original tutorial called for a mix of gold and silver. I instead did a highlight of Polished Gold. This resulted in less of a cold tone, and thus I skipped the yellow wash.
Highlight with a 1:1 mix of Polished Gold and Silver.
Verdict: pretty good on such details armor as the Wyldwood provides better separation than Reikland Fleshshade.
Cloak
Skip the fancy colors on the back of the cloak and go for Slaaneshi cloth. This will at least tie the big guy in to the rest of my forces.
Also skip the fancy mixes on the cloak and go for a cover of Sigvald Burgundy. It's in the name, right? And it would have looked marvelous, but the 6:1 diluted Shyish Purple messed it all up.
At this point I had a large blob of the color mix from the back of the cloak, so I just drew the symbols with that, applied Magos Purple, then highlight with the basecoat.
Sharp highlights with Squid Pink. Way too sharp in the middle of the cloak, I think.
Horns
Basecoat Ghost Grey.
This was a fun wet blending process but the outcome isn't that great.
Paint the horn Contrast Medium. Paint 90% of it Apothecary White. Paint half of it Space Wolves Grey. Paint the top Black Templar. Use Apothecary White for feathering blending.
Perhaps I applied too much medium in the first step, but I just had all the colors flow towards the bottom. I feathered it all vigorously, then applied more Black Templar to the ends.
Ghost Grey edge highlights.
Shield
Basecoat Chainmail Silver, then apply a coat of 8:1 diluted Terradon Turqoise.
Stipple more of it along the lower halves of the circles, then just straight up apply a second layer on the lower halves.
Next to no difference on the picture but trust me that I diluted 10:1 Chainmail Silver with Contrast Medium for an overall coat to give back some shine, then again 10:1 Silver on the upper halves of the circles.
Shiny gold rim (and also the sword guard, see below) as I had no patience for mixing up the shade again.
As for the rune, undercoat Grey Seer then paint Shyish Purple. I did highlights using Warlord Purple and Squid Pink, and at the same time I did the purple gemstones. I decided to only do the gems embedded in gold areas, so the purple would contrast with the yellowy gold.
I also did blue gems (Talassar Blue, shade Akhelian Green, highlight Electric Blue), an orange gem in the middle of the blue shield (Magmadroth Flame, shade Gryph Hound Orange, highlight Orange Fire), and a yellow gem in the middle of the stick on the base (Bad Moons Yellow, shade Iyanden Yellow - perhaps Nazdreg Yellow would have been better, highlight with a mix of Sun Yellow and Dead White).
Do the white spot highlights along with the eyes.
Sword
The original tutorial did the same process as for the shield, but I felt like trying something out. Now, the sword is pretty thin so no fancy blending. Basecoat Grey Seer and coat Aethermatic Blue.
Another coat of Aethermatic Blue on the halves of opposing sides, then diluted Talassar Blue on the extremities.
A wild approximation of Bahharoth Blue using Electric Blue, Ghost Grey and Grey Seer for the edge highlight.
Face
I feel conflicted about the face and I think my own established method would have been at least as good. The Volupus Pink recess shade (visible here) is completely lost during highlights, which become way too stark. 8:1 diluted Wyldwood is... okay, I guess, as a shade. I just did Female face in the end.
Base
The sculpted elements are easy wasteland, marble and Bone. I wanted to cut corners and did an overall Wraithbone drybrush when finishing the marble, but it was way too stark on the ground and too streaky on the bones thanks to the large drybrush.
I coated the bones and ground using the diluted Wyldwood remaining from the face, and it meshed up the colors pretty well.
I coated the paving Black Templar.
Then drybrushed Wolf Grey. It was a bit stark, but a coat of Nuln Oil dulled it down.
Finally, paint the stick Slaaneshi metallics.
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